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Yemen Mokha

Yemen is where coffee became a commodity, shipped from the port of Mokha from the 1400s. Today's Yemeni coffee is wild, winey and chocolatey, rare and costly.

Yemen is where coffee became a commodity. Beans originated in Ethiopia, but it was Yemeni farmers who first cultivated it commercially, and the port of Mokha that shipped it to the world from the fifteenth century onwards.

Every Typica and Bourbon tree on earth — and therefore most arabica varieties — descends from Yemeni stock.

The profile

Wild and complex: winey, deeply chocolatey, spiced, sometimes with a dried-fruit and tobacco character. Heavy body, low-to-moderate acidity, and a fermented edge that is part of the identity rather than a defect.

Nothing else tastes like it, and no two lots taste quite the same.

How it is grown

On terraces cut into extremely steep mountainsides, at altitudes reaching 2,400 meters (7,900 ft), often on plots of a fraction of a hectare. Water is scarce, so processing is natural — cherries dried whole on rooftops and terraces, exactly as they were centuries ago.

The varieties are ancient Yemeni landraces, largely uncatalogued.

Why it is difficult

Yemen has been at war for years. Infrastructure is damaged, export routes are unreliable, and drought is a chronic threat. Every bag reaching the US has come through a supply chain that should not really work.

Quality varies enormously as a result, and prices are very high.

The name confusion

Mokha the port gave its name to the chocolatey flavor note, and then to the mocha drink containing actual chocolate. The drink has nothing to do with Yemeni coffee beyond the borrowed word.

Brewing it

Immersion suits its body and its wildness — a French press or an AeroPress. Medium roast. It is an experience rather than an everyday coffee, and it should be approached as one.

What people want to know

Is Yemen where coffee was first traded?

Effectively yes. Coffee originated in Ethiopia, and Yemen was where it was first cultivated commercially and exported, through the port of Mokha, from the fifteenth century. The Typica and Bourbon lineages that populate the world descend from Yemeni stock.

Why is it so expensive and so variable?

Tiny terraced plots at extreme altitude, ancient processing infrastructure, drought, and an ongoing war. Every bag that reaches Europe has come through a difficult supply chain, and quality varies enormously.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.