Yemen is where coffee became a commodity. Beans originated in Ethiopia, but it was Yemeni farmers who first cultivated it commercially, and the port of Mokha that shipped it to the world from the fifteenth century onwards.
Every Typica and Bourbon tree on earth — and therefore most arabica varieties — descends from Yemeni stock.
The profile
Wild and complex: winey, deeply chocolatey, spiced, sometimes with a dried-fruit and tobacco character. Heavy body, low-to-moderate acidity, and a fermented edge that is part of the identity rather than a defect.
Nothing else tastes like it, and no two lots taste quite the same.
How it is grown
On terraces cut into extremely steep mountainsides, at altitudes reaching 2,400 metres, often on plots of a fraction of a hectare. Water is scarce, so processing is natural — cherries dried whole on rooftops and terraces, exactly as they were centuries ago.
The varieties are ancient Yemeni landraces, largely uncatalogued.
Why it is difficult
Yemen has been at war for years. Infrastructure is damaged, export routes are unreliable, and drought is a chronic threat. Every bag reaching Europe has come through a supply chain that should not really work.
Quality varies enormously as a result, and prices are very high.
The name confusion
Mokha the port gave its name to the chocolatey flavour note, and then to the mocha drink containing actual chocolate. The drink has nothing to do with Yemeni coffee beyond the borrowed word.
Brewing it
Immersion suits its body and its wildness — a French press or an AeroPress. Medium roast. It is an experience rather than an everyday coffee, and it should be approached as one.