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Yunnan

Yunnan grows almost all of China's coffee: mild, nutty Catimor, and a fast-rising specialty wave of Typica, Bourbon and Geisha. Why it is worth watching.

Yunnan produces almost all of China’s coffee, on the country’s southwestern borders with Myanmar and Laos.

The history

Coffee arrived with French missionaries in the nineteenth century and remained marginal until the 1990s, when Nestlé and the provincial government promoted it as a cash crop. Most of that planting was Catimor, chosen for yield and rust resistance rather than cup quality.

The profile

Traditional Catimor lots are mild and nutty with a light body and low acidity — clean and unremarkable, and destined for blends.

The newer specialty wave is different. Growers replanting Typica, Bourbon and Geisha at higher altitudes, with careful processing, are producing lots that cup genuinely well: stone fruit, floral notes, and a clean sweetness.

Why it is worth watching

Yunnan has altitude, climate and an enormous domestic coffee market driving investment. Quality has improved faster here over the last decade than almost anywhere.

Processing experimentation — anaerobic and honey lots — is widespread.

Brewing it

Depends entirely on the lot. Catimor commodity coffee suits batch brew at medium roast; specialty Yunnan deserves a filter cone and a light roast.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.