Cà phê trứng was invented in Hanoi in the 1940s, when milk was scarce and egg yolk was used instead. It is now a Hanoi institution.
What it is
Egg yolk whipped with sweetened condensed milk until it becomes a thick, pale, custard-like foam — essentially an uncooked sabayon — spooned onto strong black Vietnamese coffee.
You drink through the foam, so each mouthful is bitter coffee and sweet custard together.
Making it
Whisk one egg yolk with two tablespoons of sweetened condensed milk for three or four minutes, until it triples in volume and turns pale and thick. An electric whisk makes this trivial; by hand it is work.
Brew strong coffee — a phin filter traditionally, or a double espresso — into a small glass, filling it about half way.
Spoon the foam on top.
Serve in a glass set in a bowl of hot water, which is how Hanoi cafés keep it warm.
The raw egg question
It is traditional and it is raw. Use fresh eggs from a source you trust, and it is worth knowing before you serve it to anyone.
The taste
Like a tiramisu that has been turned into a drink. Sweet, rich, and the coffee’s bitterness is essential to keep it from cloying.