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Egg coffee

Egg yolk whipped with condensed milk into a thick sweet foam, floated on strong black coffee. Far better than it sounds.

Cà phê trứng was invented in Hanoi in the 1940s, when milk was scarce and egg yolk was used instead. It is now a Hanoi institution.

What it is

Egg yolk whipped with sweetened condensed milk until it becomes a thick, pale, custard-like foam — essentially an uncooked sabayon — spooned onto strong black Vietnamese coffee.

You drink through the foam, so each mouthful is bitter coffee and sweet custard together.

Making it

Whisk one egg yolk with two tablespoons of sweetened condensed milk for three or four minutes, until it triples in volume and turns pale and thick. An electric whisk makes this trivial; by hand it is work.

Brew strong coffee — a phin filter traditionally, or a double espresso — into a small glass, filling it about half way.

Spoon the foam on top.

Serve in a glass set in a bowl of hot water, which is how Hanoi cafés keep it warm.

The raw egg question

It is traditional and it is raw. Use fresh eggs from a source you trust, and it is worth knowing before you serve it to anyone.

The taste

Like a tiramisu that has been turned into a drink. Sweet, rich, and the coffee’s bitterness is essential to keep it from cloying.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.

  • The original, still right Moka pots

    Bialetti Moka Express 3-cup

    Aluminium · 130 ml · not induction

    Ninety years old, sold by the million, and misused by almost everyone who owns one. Brewed properly — low heat, pre-boiled water, off the hob at the first gurgle — it is one of the great cheap coffees.

    Best for: One or two strong cups on a gas or electric hob, at almost no cost.

    8.0/10

    ≈ $35 / £25 / 25 €

  • Cheapest honest espresso Espresso machines

    De'Longhi Dedica Style EC685

    51 mm portafilter · 15 cm wide · pressurised baskets

    Fifteen centimetres wide, heats in forty seconds, and makes a decent drink for under 200. It ships with pressurised baskets that fake crema from any grind — which is exactly why it works for beginners and why it stalls after a year.

    Best for: A tiny kitchen, a first espresso machine, or a second machine for an office.

    7.2/10

    ≈ $200 / £170 / 180 €