The Serra da Mantiqueira runs along the borders of Minas Gerais, São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, and it produces coffee quite unlike Brazil’s reputation.
Why it differs
Altitude and terrain. At 1,000 to 1,500 metres on steep mountain slopes, mechanical harvesting is impossible. Coffee here is hand-picked, selectively, which alone lifts quality above the mechanically stripped plateau.
Cooler temperatures slow maturation.
The profile
Sweet and floral with more acidity and clarity than Cerrado or Sul de Minas. Yellow Bourbon from this region in particular can be genuinely delicate — jasmine, stone fruit, honey.
It is the Brazilian coffee to reach for if you find Brazilian coffee dull.
Protected designation
Mantiqueira de Minas holds a Brazilian denomination of origin, one of the country’s first for coffee, with defined boundaries and quality requirements.
Yellow Bourbon
The region’s signature variety, ripening to yellow rather than red, and widely regarded as producing Brazil’s sweetest coffee.
Processing
Natural and pulped natural predominantly, as across Brazil, though carefully executed here with raised beds rather than patios.
Brewing it
Filter at light to medium roast shows what makes it different. It also makes an unusually elegant espresso.