The Misuku Hills in northern Malawi, near the Tanzanian border, produce the country’s best coffee at 1,700 to 2,000 metres.
The profile
Bright and delicate: citrus, tea-like florals, a light body and a clean finish. Closer to an Ethiopian or a high-altitude Kenyan than to most of southern Africa.
The Geisha
Malawi has genuine Geisha plantings, distributed through research stations decades ago and grown quietly ever since. These lots predate the Panamanian boom and are sold at a fraction of Panamanian prices.
Whether they express the variety as dramatically depends on the plot, and they are among the more interesting value propositions in specialty coffee.
Smallholder co-operatives
Malawian coffee comes almost entirely from very small farms organised into co-operatives, with centralised washing. The Mzuzu co-operative union handles much of the northern crop.
Volumes
Very small. Malawi produces a tiny fraction of what Kenya or Ethiopia does, and availability is intermittent.
The other regions
Thyolo, Mulanje and Nkhata Bay also grow coffee, generally lower and less distinguished than Misuku.
Brewing it
Filter, light roast, a clean brewer. Delicacy is the point.