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Buna ceremony

Green beans roasted, ground and brewed in front of guests, served in three rounds over hours. Coffee’s oldest ritual, in its homeland.

The Ethiopian coffee ceremony — buna — is coffee’s original ritual, performed in homes daily and lasting one to two hours.

The sequence

Roasting. Green beans are washed and roasted in a flat pan over coals, in front of the guests. The pan is carried around so everyone can smell the smoke.

Grinding. Traditionally with a wooden mortar and pestle, a mukecha.

Brewing. In a jebena — a round-bottomed clay pot with a long neck — brought to the boil, sometimes twice, then poured from height into small handleless cups.

Three rounds

Abol — the first and strongest. Tona — the second. Baraka — the third, meaning blessing.

Leaving before the third is impolite. The point is the duration, not the caffeine.

The accompaniments

Incense burning throughout, fresh grass strewn on the floor, and popcorn or roasted barley served alongside.

Making it elsewhere

A jebena is inexpensive and widely sold. What does not travel is the two hours.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.

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