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Kaffeost

Cubes of squeaky baked cheese in hot coffee, softened and eaten at the end. Northern Finland and Sápmi, and much better than it sounds.

Kaffeost — juustokahvi in Finnish — is hot coffee poured over cubes of leipäjuusto, a fresh baked cheese from northern Finland and Sápmi.

The cheese

Leipäjuusto, sometimes called bread cheese or squeaky cheese, is made from cow’s or reindeer milk, set and then baked or grilled so the surface caramelises in patches. It is mild, slightly salty, and it squeaks against your teeth.

Crucially, it does not melt. It softens and holds its shape.

How it is eaten

Cubes go in the bottom of the cup and hot coffee is poured over. They soften and absorb coffee as you drink, and you eat them with a spoon at the end.

The cheese takes the edge off the coffee’s bitterness and the coffee gives the cheese a roasted sweetness. It works far better than the description suggests.

Where it comes from

Northern Finland, Swedish Lapland and Sápmi, where dairy and coffee were both central to a subsistence economy and combining them made practical sense on a long winter day.

Trying it elsewhere

Leipäjuusto is exported and sold in Nordic delicatessens across Europe. Halloumi is sometimes suggested as a substitute and is considerably saltier — it works, badly.

The coffee

Ordinary hot filter coffee, medium roast. This is not the place for a delicate light-roast Ethiopian.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.

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