Excelsa was for decades considered coffee’s fourth commercial species. Botanists have since reclassified it as a variety of Liberica — Coffea liberica var. dewevrei — though the trade name persists.
The profile
Distinctive and hard to place: tart and fruity, with dark stone-fruit notes and a light-to-medium body, alongside a woody character.
It is often described as tasting simultaneously like a light and a dark roast, which is unhelpful and roughly accurate.
How it is used
Almost always in blends rather than alone. Its tartness and complexity add a dimension that arabica and robusta do not provide, and a small percentage changes a blend noticeably.
Single-origin excelsa exists and is rare.
Where it grows
South East Asia principally — Vietnam, the Philippines, Indonesia — plus South Sudan and parts of central Africa.
Under one per cent of world production.
The climate argument
Like Liberica, excelsa tolerates heat, drought and lower altitudes better than arabica. As climate change compresses arabica’s viable range, interest in both has grown among researchers and a handful of specialty importers.
Whether the market will accept the flavour is a separate question.
Brewing it
Immersion or batch brew, medium roast. Approach it as a curiosity.