The Geisha that sells for extraordinary prices in Panama descends from material collected in the Gori Gesha forest in south-western Ethiopia in the 1930s.
Coffee grown in Ethiopia and labelled Gesha is not the same thing.
Why they differ
The Panamanian population is a narrow selection — a specific line, propagated from a small number of plants that expressed the floral character strongly in Boquete’s conditions.
The Ethiopian population is wild and diverse. Trees in the Gesha forest vary enormously; some show the famous character, many do not.
So an Ethiopian coffee labelled Gesha may be genetically related to Panamanian Geisha and will not reliably taste like it.
What Ethiopian Gesha tastes like
At its best, floral and tea-like in the familiar way. More often, recognisably Ethiopian — jasmine and citrus — without the extreme intensity that the Panamanian selection produces at altitude.
The naming
Geisha is a transliteration error that stuck, and it caused a decade of confusion with Japan. Gesha is the place. Both spellings are in commercial use, sometimes deliberately: Ethiopian producers increasingly use Gesha to distinguish themselves.
Brewing it
Filter, light roast, clean brewer — as with any delicate Ethiopian coffee.