Geisha

Geisha — properly Gesha — is a variety collected in the 1930s from the Gori Gesha forest in south-western Ethiopia, distributed through research stations, and largely ignored for seventy years because it yields poorly and grows awkwardly.

The 2004 moment

Hacienda La Esmeralda in Boquete, Panama, had Geisha planted on a high, cool section of the farm nobody expected much from. Separated and entered into the Best of Panama competition in 2004, it scored far above anything else and sold for a record price.

Prices have climbed ever since. Individual lots have exceeded a thousand dollars a pound at auction.

What it tastes like

Intensely floral and tea-like: jasmine, bergamot, orange blossom, peach, with a delicate body and a long, clean finish. The comparison to Earl Grey is made constantly because it is accurate.

At its best it does not taste like most people’s idea of coffee at all.

Why it is expensive

Low yield. Geisha trees produce considerably less than Caturra or Catuai on the same land.

Demanding to grow. It needs high altitude and specific conditions to express the profile at all — Geisha grown low tastes ordinary.

Enormous demand against tiny supply, plus the reputation effect.

The honest caveat

The name now sells coffee on its own. A great deal of Geisha on the market is grown in unsuitable conditions or roasted badly, and tastes like a moderately nice coffee at an extraordinary price.

Brewing it

Filter, very light roast, clean brewer. Grind fine, brew hot, and use good water — at this price it is worth removing every other variable.