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Santa Ana

Santa Ana, in El Salvador's Apaneca-Ilamatepec range, is the country's key coffee region: old Bourbon, Pacas and Pacamara, sweet with stone fruit and caramel.

Santa Ana, in the Apaneca-Ilamatepec range of western El Salvador, is the country’s most important coffee region.

Old Bourbon

El Salvador is unusual in having retained a very high proportion of Bourbon — around two-thirds of plantings — where most of Latin America replanted with higher-yielding hybrids.

That is partly an accident of history: the civil war of the 1980s halted the replanting programs that transformed neighboring countries. The result is a great deal of old Bourbon still in the ground.

The profile

Sweet and balanced with stone fruit, caramel and a soft, rounded acidity. Bourbon character, expressed on volcanic soil at altitude.

Pacas and Pacamara

Pacas is a Bourbon dwarf mutation found on a Salvadoran farm in 1949. Pacamara is Pacas crossed with Maragogype, bred here in 1958 and now grown across Central America.

Both are Salvadoran contributions to the coffee world.

Shade

Salvadoran coffee is heavily shade-grown, and the coffee farms represent a large share of the country’s remaining forest cover.

Brewing it

Filter or espresso at medium-light roast. Sweetness is the theme, and Pacamara lots, with their large beans, often need a slightly coarser grind.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.