Boquete sits in Panama’s Chiriquí highlands, near the Costa Rican border, and it is where Geisha’s reputation was made in 2004.
The conditions
Cool, misty and high, with cloud cover from the Caribbean side and volcanic soil from the Barú volcano. The combination slows ripening dramatically, which concentrates sugar and acid.
Those conditions are what let Geisha express its floral character — the same variety grown lower and warmer tastes ordinary.
The profile
Beyond Geisha, Boquete’s Caturra and Catuai are excellent: clean, sweet and balanced, with citrus and stone fruit.
Geisha lots from here are jasmine, bergamot, orange blossom and peach — the reference for what the variety can do.
The Best of Panama auction
The annual competition and auction has driven prices to extraordinary levels, with individual lots exceeding a thousand dollars a pound. It is the most visible price-discovery event in specialty coffee.
An honest caution
The region’s name now sells coffee. There is excellent non-Geisha Boquete at sane prices, and there is expensive Geisha grown in conditions that do not justify it.
Brewing it
Filter, very light roast, and the cleanest brewer you own.