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Shantawene

Shantawene is a washing station in Bensa, Sidama, whose naturals are among Ethiopia's most sought-after: blueberry, strawberry, tropical fruit, syrupy body.

Shantawene is a village and washing station in the Bensa district of Sidama, and its naturals have become some of the most sought-after coffee in Ethiopia.

The profile

Intensely fruity: blueberry, strawberry, tropical fruit, with a heavy sweetness and a syrupy body. Washed lots are cleaner and floral; the naturals are what made the name.

Why the naturals work here

Natural processing is the hardest to control — cherries dry whole for weeks and defects are easy to miss. Shantawene invested in raised drying beds, frequent turning and rigorous sorting, which is what separates a great natural from a fermented one.

That infrastructure, more than the terroir alone, is why the lots score.

Altitude

1,900 to 2,200 meters (6,234 to 7,218 ft), on steep ground worked by smallholders delivering cherry to the station.

The price

High, and rising with each competition result. Ethiopian station names now behave much like Burgundy vineyard names — the good ones are bid up well past the point where quality alone explains it.

Brewing it

Filter, very light roast. Naturals this intense also work in an immersion brewer, where the body carries.

Grind fine, brew hot, use good water.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.