Benguet, in the Cordillera mountains of northern Luzon, is the centre of Philippine arabica production.
The lost industry
The Philippines was one of the world’s largest coffee exporters in the nineteenth century — for a period the fourth largest — until coffee leaf rust arrived in the 1880s and destroyed nearly the entire crop.
The industry never fully recovered, and the country is now a net importer.
The profile
Sweet and floral with medium body and moderate acidity — jasmine, citrus, brown sugar in the better washed lots.
The revival
Specialty-focused replanting has been underway for two decades, with support from co-operatives and NGOs. Quality has risen and volumes remain very small.
Kapeng barako
The Philippines’ other coffee identity: Liberica, a third species alongside arabica and robusta, grown in Batangas and Cavite. It has a large bean, a distinctive smoky and woody character, and a devoted domestic following.
Liberica is genuinely rare globally, which makes it worth trying if you encounter it.
Availability
Mostly domestic. Philippine lots reach European specialty shops occasionally and in tiny quantities.
Brewing it
Filter at medium-light roast for Benguet arabica. Liberica is best approached with an immersion brewer and no expectations of anything familiar.