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Pacamara

Pacamara crosses Pacas with giant-bean Maragogype, bred in El Salvador in 1958. Complex and fruity at best, plain at worst, and a regular competition winner.

Pacamara was created in El Salvador in 1958 by crossing Pacas — a Bourbon dwarf mutation — with Maragogype, the giant-bean Typica mutation.

The beans

Visibly enormous, larger than any other common variety, and the first thing you notice opening a bag.

That size matters practically: large beans roast differently, with a greater risk of the outside developing faster than the inside, so roasters adjust their profiles for them.

The cup

At its best: complex and unusual, with tropical and stone fruit, herbal and savory notes, chocolate, and a heavy syrupy body. It regularly wins Cup of Excellence competitions in Central America.

At its worst: vegetal, thin and unremarkable.

Why it varies so much

Pacamara is genetically unstable. Plantings do not breed true in the way established varieties do, so trees within a lot can differ noticeably.

That instability is why the variety produces both the extraordinary and the ordinary, sometimes from the same farm. It also means a Pacamara that impressed you once may not repeat.

Where it grows

El Salvador principally, plus Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua. It needs high altitude to express itself; grown low it is unremarkable.

Brewing it

Filter, light to medium roast. Its complexity rewards a clean brewer, and its body means it also works in an immersion.

Because the beans are so large, they can behave unexpectedly in a grinder — expect to adjust from your usual setting, sometimes by more than you would think.

What people want to know

Why are Pacamara beans so big?

It inherits size from Maragogype, itself a giant-bean mutation of Typica. The beans are visibly larger than any other common variety, which affects roasting — they need adjusted profiles to develop evenly.

Why is it so inconsistent?

It is genetically unstable, so plantings can vary considerably from tree to tree. That variability produces both spectacular competition lots and disappointing ordinary ones.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.