Café de olla — coffee of the pot — is simmered with piloncillo and cinnamon in an earthenware olla.
The ingredients
Piloncillo is unrefined whole cane sugar, sold in hard cones. It tastes of molasses and caramel rather than simply sweet, and it is a genuine flavour ingredient rather than a sweetener.
Canela — true Ceylon cinnamon rather than cassia — added as a stick.
Sometimes orange peel, star anise or cloves.
The clay pot
Traditional and not merely decorative: unglazed earthenware contributes a distinct mineral, earthy note that Mexicans describe as essential. A metal pan makes the drink; a clay olla makes café de olla.
Making it
Bring 1 litre of water to a simmer with 60 g of piloncillo and a cinnamon stick until the sugar dissolves.
Add 60 g of coarsely ground coffee, take it off the heat, cover, and steep for five minutes.
Strain and serve in clay mugs.
The history
It dates to the Mexican Revolution, when it was made for soldiers — sweet, strong and warming, from whatever coffee was available.
Which coffee
A medium-roast Chiapas or Oaxaca, coarsely ground. There is no point using an expensive delicate coffee under this much sugar and spice.