Café cubano — cafecito — is espresso with sugar, and the technique is what makes it.
Espuma
A spoonful of sugar goes into a cup. The first few drops of the espresso are poured onto it, and the two are beaten hard with a spoon until they form a thick, pale, caramel-coloured paste.
The rest of the shot is poured through, and the espuma rises as a sweet crema layer.
Why it works
Beating sugar with a small quantity of very hot concentrated coffee partially dissolves and aerates it. The result is more stable and more integrated than sugar stirred in afterwards, and it sweetens the whole shot evenly.
The family
Cortadito — this, cut with equal steamed or evaporated milk.
Colada — a large serving with several tiny cups, meant to be shared. A Miami workplace institution.
The coffee
Dark-roasted, often with robusta, and traditionally brewed in a moka pot at home.
Making one
Whip a teaspoon of sugar with the first drops of a double espresso until pale and thick, then pour the rest through.