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Café cubano

Espresso with sugar whipped into the first drops to form a pale sweet foam. The base of every Cuban coffee drink.

Café cubano — cafecito — is espresso with sugar, and the technique is what makes it.

Espuma

A spoonful of sugar goes into a cup. The first few drops of the espresso are poured onto it, and the two are beaten hard with a spoon until they form a thick, pale, caramel-coloured paste.

The rest of the shot is poured through, and the espuma rises as a sweet crema layer.

Why it works

Beating sugar with a small quantity of very hot concentrated coffee partially dissolves and aerates it. The result is more stable and more integrated than sugar stirred in afterwards, and it sweetens the whole shot evenly.

The family

Cortadito — this, cut with equal steamed or evaporated milk. Colada — a large serving with several tiny cups, meant to be shared. A Miami workplace institution.

The coffee

Dark-roasted, often with robusta, and traditionally brewed in a moka pot at home.

Making one

Whip a teaspoon of sugar with the first drops of a double espresso until pale and thick, then pour the rest through.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.

  • The original, still right Moka pots

    Bialetti Moka Express 3-cup

    Aluminium · 130 ml · not induction

    Ninety years old, sold by the million, and misused by almost everyone who owns one. Brewed properly — low heat, pre-boiled water, off the hob at the first gurgle — it is one of the great cheap coffees.

    Best for: One or two strong cups on a gas or electric hob, at almost no cost.

    8.0/10

    ≈ $35 / £25 / 25 €

  • Cheapest honest espresso Espresso machines

    De'Longhi Dedica Style EC685

    51 mm portafilter · 15 cm wide · pressurised baskets

    Fifteen centimetres wide, heats in forty seconds, and makes a decent drink for under 200. It ships with pressurised baskets that fake crema from any grind — which is exactly why it works for beginners and why it stalls after a year.

    Best for: A tiny kitchen, a first espresso machine, or a second machine for an office.

    7.2/10

    ≈ $200 / £170 / 180 €