Frappé

The Greek frappé is one of the few drinks in the world that genuinely requires instant coffee, and it was invented by accident at a trade fair in Thessaloniki in 1957 when a Nestlé representative could not find hot water.

Why instant

Spray-dried instant coffee contains compounds that foam vigorously when agitated with a small amount of water. Brewed coffee does not — it produces bubbles that collapse within seconds.

The thick, persistent, pale foam that defines a frappé is only achievable with instant. Substituting espresso gives you iced coffee, which is a different and less interesting drink.

Making one

Two teaspoons of instant coffee, sugar to taste, and just a splash of cold water — a tablespoon or two — in a shaker or a tall glass.

Shake hard, or use a small electric frother, for thirty seconds until you have a thick pale foam that fills the vessel.

Add ice, top up with cold water, and add evaporated milk if you want it.

How to order

• Sketos — no sugar
• Metrios — medium
• Glykos — sweet

And me gala if you want milk.

The Cypriot version

Made with more milk and sometimes with a different coffee, and disputed vigorously between the two countries.