A Pharisäer is strong coffee with brown rum and sugar, topped with a thick layer of unsweetened whipped cream. It comes from the North Frisian islands off Germany’s north-west coast.
The story
The name means Pharisee — hypocrite — and it comes with a specific anecdote. In the nineteenth century a pastor on the island of Nordstrand disapproved of drinking. At a christening, his parishioners served themselves rum in coffee, hiding the smell under whipped cream, and served him a cream-topped coffee with no rum in it.
When he worked it out, he is said to have declared “Ihr Pharisäer!” — and the drink was named.
Whether or not it happened that way, the region has kept both the drink and the story.
Making one
Around 40 ml of brown rum and a teaspoon of sugar in a warmed handled glass or cup. Fill with strong hot filter coffee, leaving room. Spoon thick, unsweetened whipped cream on top.
Do not stir. Locally this is treated as genuine bad manners — the cream is meant to stay as a lid, and you drink through it.
Relatives along the coast
Rüdesheimer Kaffee uses Asbach brandy and sweetened cream, from the Rhine.
Fiete and various island variants swap the spirit.
Irish coffee is the same idea from a different coast — whiskey, sugar, coffee, cream floated on top — and the Frisian version is older by some decades.
The coffee matters
Because there is no milk, the coffee is exposed. Strong filter coffee works better than espresso here, and a dark or medium roast holds up against the rum where a delicate light roast disappears.
Questions people actually ask
Why is it called Pharisee?
The story goes that a nineteenth-century North Frisian pastor disapproved of alcohol, so his parishioners served rum-laced coffee under whipped cream at a christening to disguise the smell. When he discovered it he called them Pharisees — hypocrites. The name stuck.
Do I stir it?
Traditionally not, and stirring is said to be an insult to the host. You drink the hot rum coffee through the cold cream.