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Mazagran

Cold sweetened coffee with lemon, from a French garrison in Algeria. Portugal’s version is an institution and it works.

Mazagran is cold coffee with lemon, and its origin is a nineteenth-century French garrison at Mazagran in Algeria, where soldiers reportedly drank coffee cut with water and lemon in the heat.

Returning soldiers brought it to France, and it took hold most firmly in Portugal, where it remains a summer standard.

Why lemon and coffee work

Coffee is acidic already, and its acids are largely citric and malic — the same family as lemon. Adding lemon amplifies rather than clashes, and the result reads as bright and refreshing rather than odd.

It works best with a bright, fruity, light-roast coffee and poorly with a dark chocolatey one.

The Portuguese version

Espresso, sugar, lemon juice or a slice, ice, in a tall glass. Sometimes topped with sparkling water, sometimes with a splash of rum.

The Austrian version

Confusingly, Austria has a different Mazagran: cold coffee with sugar and rum, no lemon, served over ice.

Making one

A double espresso, sweetened while hot, cooled. Pour over ice with the juice of a quarter lemon and a slice. Top with sparkling water if you want it longer.

The modern relative

Espresso tonic is the same instinct — bitterness and citrus over ice — arrived at independently by Scandinavian cafés a century later.

What you need to make it

The equipment this actually requires — not a shopping list, the shortest route to doing it properly.

  • Best machine to keep Espresso machines

    Gaggia Classic Evo Pro

    58 mm commercial portafilter · 3-way solenoid · steel body

    A 58 mm commercial portafilter, a steel body and a three-way solenoid, in a machine cheap enough to modify. Nothing else at this price is still worth owning in fifteen years, and nothing else has this much of an aftermarket.

    Best for: Someone who wants one espresso machine for the next fifteen years and does not mind learning it.

    8.5/10

    ≈ $500 / £400 / 450 €

  • Bodum Pavina double-wall glasses
    Best value glassware

    Bodum Pavina Double-Wall Glasses

    Double-walled borosilicate that keeps a drink hot and the outside cool, and shows the layers of a latte. Cheap enough to replace when one inevitably goes.

    Material
    Borosilicate, double wall
    Sizes
    80 to 450 ml
    Dishwasher
    Yes
    • Double wall keeps drinks hot far longer than a single-wall glass
    • Shows the layers, which matters for a cortado or a latte macchiato
    • Thin borosilicate; they break if knocked against a tap

    Best for: Espresso-based milk drinks, and anyone who likes seeing them.

    8.2/10 ≈ $35 / £28 / 30 €
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